Shimla Travel Blog

16-18 September 2005
By Akhilesh & Alpana

 
Table of Content

Page 1 Start from Home
Page 2 Shimla
Page 3 Kufri
Page 4 Indira Tourist Park
Page 5 Institute of Advance Studies
Page 6 Back to Hotel

 
Page 1 Start from Home Table of Content

Started from home [0500 16Sept2005]

Reached New Delhi railway station by 0540

 

Himalayan Queen Starting from New Delhi [0600 16Sept2005]

Indian Railways New Delhi – Kalka Himalayan Queen

Himalayan Queen is day journey train, and we had the chair car compartment. Reached Kalka via various Haryana towns including its capital Chandigarh.


Toy Train [1220 16Sept2005]

Kalka – Simla Himalayan Queen

Took 6 hours to reach Shimla

(Note: Indian Railways still use the term Simla, rather than Shimla. Shimla was called Simla at the time of British Rule. Railways are still adhering to the same. Similar to this is Baleshwar, that the railways term as Balasore)

Toy Train Video
Toy Train Video in 3gp format Alpana in toy train Train View

 .75 m (2.4 feet) track width
97Km Distance of journey
1.5Km Upward Distance - from 640m (2100 feet) Kalka to 2130m (6988 feet)  Shimla
103 Tunnels
Longest: 1150 meters (3225 feet)
2nd longest: 700 meters (2296 feet)
Speed 20 – 25 kmph (12-15 mph)

 

For detailed information visit Northern Railway’s Kalka Shimla Railways Official Web Site.

Water bottles were not available on Kalka Station, as plastic bottles and bags are banned over there. But they were available on the en route stations.

 

Pine Tree 

The most abundant tree that you will find after leaving Kalka, and till some time before Shimla is Pine. It is almost ubiquitous and will find them all along the route.

  
Train Breaking Down

Train broke down loosing its full pulling power. Its driver has come down to put some gravel below the wheels to increase the friction. We traveled like this for more than half an hour, with slope came down the driver with the gravel. Slope coupled with turn made it even worse and used to take some 5-10 minutes to negotiate such place.

 

Toy Train Video
Approaching station after the breakdown

Devdaar Tree 

Once we reached to higher altitude a new type of tree started emerging on the scene. This was the Devdaar tree. It can be seen everywhere on that height, and the pine tree was nowhere to be seen.

 

Bends, Loops, Bridges and Tunnels

The train journey included 103 tunnels and many bridges, bends and loops. It was fascinating to see such a piece of engineering.

 

Toy Train Video
One of the bridge Approaching a station. The upper part is engulfed by the clouds

 
 
Page 2 Shimla Table of Content

Reached Shimla [1800 16Sept2005]

 Hired kuli to take to a hotel. After seeing thru a hotel we settled at hotel Brightland, it was near the station (some 10-15 min walk). It was already dark and we quickly got ready to move around the town.

 Shimla is a tourist place with lots and lots of hotels. All shops close at around 9:30 – 10:00PM. Mall is the center of the town in Shimla. It has market and other things. Vehicles are not allowed there and one needs to walk on foot to move around. Since it is a hilly area one needs to climb and descend a lot.

 
The Mall

The Mall was around 100 meters distant from us, upwards. We had to walk up to reach the place. Initially it was tiring but we got used to it. The market had all types of shops, the one that we find in our Noida city. All major banks and their ATMs were there, Dominos was there, and even ICH was there. Since it is a cool place many outlets of hot drinks were present. Soup and coffee were abundant, but the one I will not forget for long was Bournvita vending machine.

 After having our dinner there we went back to our hotel around 9:30PM. Cool, descending down was easy!!!

 

 Next morning [0900 17Sept05]

We went to tour the city. Arranged a taxi to take us around the city.

 

Toy Train Video
On way to Kufri in our Taxi

Found from my mother back at home in Noida that there was a severe storm that had swept many parts of the Northern India the night before. There was no electricity in the night and thousands of trees were uprooted in the capital city of India. Even the highway nearby us was blocked due to uprooted trees that blocked the roads. The rains that we were witnessing in Shimla the month of mid September was due to that only. The CNN was 100% correct in predicting the rains and its duration on their website.

 

Green Valley

Approx 10km from Shimla on the National Highway. It has the panoramic view of Asia’s thickest pine forest. Good location for taking snaps.

 

Toy Train Video
Green Valley. Devdaar trees are on the left Green valley: One of the thickest pine tree forest in Asia

Helipad

At the height of 8000feets, big plain ground for landing and takeoffs of choppers. Good view from three sides. It was all cloud over there and we used to get the view only when the clouds parted a bit. Rain was still coming down, though not heavy. So most of our snaps are in umbrella over here! 

 

Toy Train Video
The H of Helipad A view of the mountains hidden partially behind the clouds

Just after the Helipad was a Laddakh Handloom shop. This shop gave quiet pleasant results to my credit card company.

 
Page 3 Kufri Table of Content

Kufri

This place is around 15KM from Shimla, known for it ski slopes is at 8600feets height. Horses are there to take you to the top, if you want. In rains the slope becomes bit slippery due to muddy path, and you have extra fun time on the horse. The two horses came at around for Rs750 for the last peak and return.

 

We took a horse couple (named Neeli and Laali – Laali was red, but Neeli was, well, white) Learned the trick of horse riding a bit. You need to kneel down when the horse goes up the slope and push yourself back when it is going down. In sum maintain the gravity center for balance. It was extra effort as we also had to hold the umbrella, and not to drop it even once, as Ramesh – the horse guide told us, it will terrorize the horses and they will drop us and run. So we held the umbrellas very tightly as if our sole existence was dependent on it.

 

Toy Train Video
Mahasu Peak. Ramesh who guided the horses and took us to the top.

Ramesh was a native who lived some where near to Shimla. He told us all about  the horses, how they are trained, how they live and how the two horse-wala unions divide their days for work.

 

It was raining and as we came to the open place cold wind also started hitting us. It was chilling, and I cursed the moment I had decided to go without the sweater (Alpana was already in one). But I felt proud of the fact that just  before the Shimla trip I had purchased a windcheater, and was very glad of that!!!

 

The most tiring part on horse riding is for the legs. They are hanging and gets tired quickly. And what the cold adds to we were to experience this very soon.

 

Mahasu Peak

We got from the horse at the first stoppage after galloping some 15-20 mins. Mostly which was up hill, and little bit of down hill.

 

          Yak 

The first extra natural beast (of course only for the urbane me) we encountered was Yak. It was lot like a Bhaisa (and you may expect Yana Gupta sitting on it). It comes in at least two colours (black and white) and it was very calm, and was over there for the sole purpose of photography. The owner of the yak charged some 20 bucks for getting us photographed on it. In few respects it was better than the horse - it was smaller and remained calm even after we were on top of it trying Mexican.

 

Toy Train Video
On the Yak Close up of a Yak

 
          Shri Shesh Naag Mandir

After that we climbed up a bit to visit a unique mandir. It was a temple for Shesh Nag Devta. Partially under construction, they were collecting money to construct a Dharamshala.

 

Toy Train Video
Shri Shesh Naag Mandir. Notice the Shesh Naag murti. Outside view of the Shesh Naag Mandir. People tie Chunri over here.

 

Photography

A great place it was, for the chai ki tapri. Well nothing better than an adrakh-ki-chai in a drizzling and frigid place like that. Got our self relaxed a bit as we gulped the hot sanjeevini. After that we got back down to the plain. There were photographers who take snaps in Traditional Laddkhi costumes. They charged exorbitantly, some 60 bucks a snap with minimum of ten snaps. Aaaarrghhh, some how got the person down to three snaps. But the $#^%$^ was shrewd and clicked five snaps until we could realize. Any way we got dressed in the traditional and then got shot in the photographer directed poses. After the clicking was over I protested for the extra snaps and bargained down the price a bit. But in all this I forgot that the snaps will be delivered only to our hotel and not now. And in all my stupidity paid up all the money to the &%$&&^%, later to realize that the photos never turned up at my hotel. Booo Hooooo. The only good part was the snaps were also clicked from my camera, other wise would have been a bigger loss. Any way, afterwards we decided to think it up as the rent for the traditional dress.

 

Toy Train Video
We in the traditional laddakhi dress Another snap in the tradiational Ladakhi dress Closeup

         

          Further

We started back on the horse to move further. Now the popular area was over and this was the route less taken. It went thru the small Kufri village, along with the hill where you can see the valley. The scene was just fantastic. You could see the step plantation to your right side that was nysnyd (now-you-see-now-you-don’t) due to the clouds that happen to be all around us. Chilled air and rain was attaching us from all the sides. We kept on moving along the Devdaar tree filled valley until we reached Deshu Mandir at the bottom of a hill.

 

          Temple – Deshu Mandir

We were exhausted sitting on Neeli and Laali. And were also feeling very cold. Ramesh told us the temple is at the top of the hill and is around 10-15 minutes climb. The cold air was doing well and so were the rains. Then another group descended down the hill, and immediately called for a taxi. Apparently they were hit by the cold escalated by climbing up/down hill. We immediately changed our plans (if any we had) to climb up the hill. We prayed from the bottom of the hill and were quickly back on the horse and way back.

Toy Train Video
The Devdaar jungle on way towards Deshu Mandir If not the Mandir, its sign board will do... Neeli and Laali

Back to the Taxi

Back journey was mostly pleasant, Rain stopped momentarily and wind speed was also gone down. Neeli and Laali speeded down the hill. We stopped at one place to take a couple of snaps, then stopped no where till the starting point.

Toy Train Video
See the step plantation behind the trees Near the Kufri village Looking down from Kufri

 

All in all we were out for around 3 hours, most of which was spend on the horse back. It was a terrific experience.

 

When getting down from the horse, I jumped to the ground, there came the big shock. My lower half leg was almost anesthetic due to the cold. Due to this I was not able to fold my legs properly to absorb the shock, and the shock wave literally traveled from my legs to the head. Whew!

 

After taking some snaps over there we woke up our driver to take us to our next destination…

 

 
Page 4 Indira Tourist Park Table of Content

Garden (Indira Tourist Park)

This was a botanical garden type of place with few varieties of native flowers blooming. Entry was Rs5 per person. A restaurant was also there and few coffee vending shops. Monkeys were abundant near that and you could observe all the family affairs of the species from there.

Toy Train Video
Flowers at Indira Tourist Park A Bunched flower. There is flower in flower - you can call it recursion if you like :D Wild mountain flower

That reminds me, yesterday [1300 29Sept05] a monkey (a regular visitor) visited our house. Our back door was open and he simply came in finding the place deserted. Mummy was also out. He saw the refrigerator, and very elegantly opened its door to find something to eat. Alpana heard him who was in another room and rushes to find the beast standing in front of the open refrigerator peeking inside for some food. Rest is history…

 

After spending some time there we moved on to the zoo which is located nearby.

 

Zoo (Himalayan Nature Park)

Priced at Rs10 per person, the zoo is quiet big and houses some of the animals and birds found locally over there. Mostly the zoo was empty with very few people around. And it was a big place to roam around.

 

Toy Train Video
There are machaans in the zoo, where you can climb and take the view of the mountains and the big cages filled with animals

One thing we noticed about was that the animals were quiet hungry. Most of them turned towards the humans in expectation of food. Though prohibited we fed a couple of chocolates to some of the animals :)

 

Sambhar Dear

There were lots of them. Peculiar characteristics was that they were very curious kind, and when any humans come they also stared at them – as if we are the animals in the zoo!

 

Toy Train Video
Sambhar Deer

Barking Dear

These bears barks like a dog, though we didn’t hear them barking. They ignored humans like anything and were mostly shy.


Toy Train Video
Meri Photo Lo. This sambhar deer was very curious and followd us along the cage

Black Bear

These were the normal black bear that we find every where. Look good only behind the cage only. There was a hungry kid bear looking just like a teddy bear. Very naughty type. When he was fed normal chapatti he ate like anything, but when given the thick chapatti then he didn’t eat it at all. We secretly fed it some chocolates, and it was more than happy about it. It was asking for more. Looked as if they were not fed very well.

 

Toy Train Video
This is the Mr Baby Hungry bear (a.k.a Teddy Bear). Very naughty. Like chocolates This bear eat lot of chocolates

 

Brown Bear

Saw one brown bear. This was something new that we saw.

 

Wolf

Had never seen wolf up this close. Was very hungry and thought we were bringing their lunch. One of them was brave and followed us expectedly. We gave it chocolate, but it didn’t eat. Well I guess I should have given them some Chicken Lollypops! One of the wolf was hungry but very shy. It looked at us very expectedly, but as soon as we took a step it ran away. I guess this will be my closest experience with this animal.

 

Toy Train Video
Bediya In its classic howling pose (though not howling in this snap).

Local species of Birds and Chickens found at high altitudes

Apart from this there were lots some verity of birds, that we glanced thru quickly as it was getting late.

 

Toy Train Video
Some mountain Birds (related to chicken) Some of the interesting landscaping at the zoo. This is one of the bridges over a cage.

Once zoo was done with we got back into our taxi and quickly headed back towards Shimla. There were more avenues to cover.

 

Page 5 Institute of Advance Studies Table of Content

Institute of Advance Studies

This is situated in Shimla and is a tourist attraction due to the heritage building of British construction. It is a feast for an architecture lover (whatever philxxxxx it is), but we reached there bit late (after 5PM) and was closed for the day. Any way we could admire its structure and the garden from the outside. And the best part was the Sun Set that we observed from there. It was a very photogenic sun set behind the mountains that we were able to see, even though the snaps didn’t come even remotely near the actual feel.

 

Toy Train Video Toy Train Video Toy Train Video
Indian Institute of Advance Studies Sunset at Indian Institute of Advance Studies Another view of the sun set Indian Institute of Advance Studies, The Main Entrance

Skipped Sankat Mochan Temple

By the time we out of the Institute of Advanced studies, it was already late (1830Hrs). We wanted to go to the famous Lakkar Bazaar of Shimla, and since Shimla closes early at night we skipped our visit to Sankat Mochan temple. We directed our driver to head back to the hotel.

 

Hotel by [1900 17Sept2005]

We were back to our hotel by 7 in the evening, some what still wet and tried, but not exhausted. We changed quickly and were on the way to the Mall.

Toy Train Video
Out Hotel Room @ Hotel Brightland

The Ridge - Lakkar Bazaar – Christ Church

We quickly climbed to the top, skipping The Mall climbed further up to reach The Ridge. It is a big open space on top where you can see the nearby mountains (we could see the lights from the houses on the nearby mountains). In day time this gives a very good view of the mountain ranges.

 

St. Micheal's Cathedral is situated over there that was built in 1857, and is the second oldest church in north India. Currently it was undergoing renovation and was covered with scaffolds.

 

We moved on to the Lakkar Bazaar where there were lot of articles made up of wood. Huge spoon and forks were present, animals of wood were there. Wood purses (which eventfully Alpana fancied a lot) were abundant and so were many wooden gift articles. We roamed around a lot, doing a lot of window shopping and little bit of actual shopping.

 

Finally when we got tired we headed back looking for a diner. Alpana wanted some South Indian, so we had to search a lot for such restaurant. Eventually we found one!

 

We headed back to hotel by around 10PM. Almost all the Shimla was asleep by that time.

Page 6 Back to Hotel Table of Content

Hotel [2215 17Sept2005]

We reach hotel, and then started to pack for the morning. We readied every thing for the morning, as our train was in the morning at around 1030. It rained heavily in the night and we could hear the rains all night outside the hotel window.

 

 Morning at Shimla Station [0800 18Sept2005]

Got up in the morning to find that rains were gone, but clouds were still present.  We started for the Shimla Station by around quarter to 10 and reached there by 1000. Spent most of the time reading about the Shimla station and its history displayed on the station.

 

One interesting thing to see near the station was the huge circular disk on the railway track that was present to reverse the train engine without using much of space. The engine used to come on the disk, and the whole disk rotated 180 degrees to reverse the train direction. Unfortunately we were not able to see this thing in action.

 

Toy Train Video
Its all cloud in the background at the Shimla Station The diesel engine of the Himalayan Queen History of Shimla Station

 
 

Toy Train, revisited [1030 18Sept2005]

Took the Himalayan Queen back to Kalka. It was another fantastic journey back that took six hours to reach Kalka. This time also there were couple of foreigners in our train including a seven foot huge one and a couple comprising an  Indian husband and an Irish wife.

 

As the track is a single track only one train can go in a direction. So to make this work in both directions one of the trains has to wait on a station till the other train coming from the other direction passes. Then only the train will move further. Interestingly this route demonstrated one of our text book network protocols where a token was issues to each network node ion turn, and only on getting the token the node could transmit the data. Here also similar mechanism was employed. An unique ring was used as the token. The train passing the station was given that ring, and only the train having that ring could go on the track. This was the other train coming from the opposite direction will have to wait till the first train passes the station and give the ring to the other train. This was collision was avoided without using much of signals. (Of course the network protocol is the one which learned from this system).

 

The reason for this short lesson I wrote was that we also waited long for the train coming from opposite direction on one of the stations. Finally after a full 45 minutes our wait was over, and when we got the ring we moved further. While waiting on the station we saw some Bottle Brush trees growing over there with its red colour brushes.

 

Toy Train Video
Look at the clouds One of the 100 Tunnels on the way Sleep Time
 

With another 103 tunnels and countless curves, bends, bridges and crystal clear views we reached Kalka at around 1620 Hrs. All the mountains were distant now and only plain was looking in front of us.

 

 Himalayan Queen, revisited [1640 18Sept2005]

We boarded the Kalka Delhi Himalayan Queen to take us back to Delhi.

 

Back home at Noida [2330 18Sept2005]

We were back  home by late night.

 

End of Blog

Table of Content

Note: For seeing more Photos  follow this link...


Akhilesh Singh

17 October, 2005
http://www.akhilesh.in


Lonely Planet guide I found to be the most reliable book around. Each budget hotel and mode of travel to Shimla was given with up-to-date train timings and Hotel fare. It is a must if you travel a lot.